There is ontroversy regarding the name and location of the Chulu peaks. There are several peaks forming part of Chulu massif but these are not always indicated on maps. It is therefore sometimes difficult to differentiate between the two trekking Chulus (East and West) as the group comprises of four peaks, two to the east and two to the west. To add further confusion, Chulu West may also be called Chulu Central. Chulu West lies to the north of Annapurna above the Manang Valley and is the highest of the peaks. It was first climbed in 1952 by a Japanese Expedition. The Base Camp for the climb is situated in a small valley north of Manang, off the main trail to the Thorang La. At Chauri Lather we take a narrow, steep trail up to a Base Camp at 4800m. From there we climb steep, rocky ground to a high camp at about 5300m. There is no technical difficulty involved in reaching the summit, but progress can be slow as the slopes are vulnerable to avalanches in certain conditions.
Ascent of Chulu West and Chulu Central are best made from a base camp in a small valley north of Manang situated off the main trail to Thorong La pass 5416m. Indeed some of the best views of this peak can be had from that pass.
Climb the rock band with some difficulty to the north-west shoulder of Chulu west 5450 meters/17,880 feets, where another camp can be established or alter-native a camp can be placed on a snow plateau above 5,530 meters/18,143 feets. On the first ascent and several subsequent ascents rope was fixed on the rock band. From the plateau continue up the progressively narrowing ridge to the summit 6,250 meters /20,505 feets. Descend by the some route.
North-West Ridge: Go beyond the hut following the yak pastures and walk up a ridge which leads into a hidden valley where it is possible to find a good site for base camp. From this camp , ascend steep scree slopes to a col 4,900/16,076 feet), on a subsidiary ridge that leads down from the main ridge. To the north of the col ascend snow slope for 200 meters to the base of a band of rock at an altitude of 5,100 meters and the site for a possible high camp.
Nepal Mountaineering Information
Climbing rules
In exercise of the powers conferred by Government of Nepal, Nepal Mountaineering Association has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya listed in Appendix ‘1’. These rules will come into force at once.
Definition: –
Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the same as those for Government of Nepal Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.
Permission:-
Any person or mountaineering team desirous of climbing the peak listed in Appendix ‘1’ must receive permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association. Application to climb the peak must be made in the form as prescribed in Appendix ‘2’. Permission to climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only. Permission may be extended, if necessary, for another period of two weeks. The period of permission granted relates to time spent for climbing above the base camp. The trek to and from the base camp is not included. Application for climbing permit may be made at any time by the concerned mountaineering team. Permit will be granted on a first come first serve basis. The right to give permission to another party for climbing the same peak during the same period is reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association. Nepal Mountaineering Association will recommend to Immigration Office of Government of Nepal for obtaining trekking permit of the area to the team members.
Pre-departure information and trekking tips
*If you have something you are particularly prone to, ear infections or sinus problems, bring what you need with you.
If you have something you are particularly prone to, ear infections, foot rot, or sinus problems, bring what you need with you. You will definitely want to be carrying some for common illnesses like diarrhea, staff infection and upset stomachs. You will need a complete set of inoculations for Asia , ask your doctor for advise.
Food: Please bring any of your own food: power bars, granola bars, dried fruit, chocolate, always nice to have.
Travel: We will be more than happy to organize all your internal travel arrangements in the Kingdom of Nepal . We have a wide variety of services and budget options to suit your needs including, airport pick-ups, sightseeing excursions, airline reconfirmation, hotel reservations and much more. Contact our friendly and experienced staff for a personal itinerary.
Cost: The cost of the trip includes all specialized climbing equipment (see personal equipment list) meals and accommodation during the trip, permits, porters, local transport and internal flights to and from Kathmandu . It does not include personal expenses, alcohol, candy, soft drinks, meals or accommodation when staying in Kathmandu or Pokhara
Your pre-departure meeting will take place in Kathmandu two evenings prior to the beginning of the course.
Age: Age is an attitude and not a problem, but we do require that group members be at least 18 years old.
Insurance: expedition members are responsible for having their own travel insurance including helicopter evacuation.
Vaccinations: Nepal has no official vaccination requirements for entry. However we recommend that you visit a doctor for the latest recommendations and protect yourself accordingly.
Visa: Visa can be obtained at Tribhuvan International Airport upon arrival. You will need 2 passport size photograph.
Currency: The best currency to have is US Dollars in travelers’ cheques, cash and/or credit cards. American Express, MasterCard and Visa are all accepted in Nepal .
Group Size |
Rate US$ |
Additional P/P US$ |
1-4 Persons | 350.00 Only | |
5-8 Persons | 350.00 Plus | 40.00 (Per person) |
9-12 Persons | 510.00 Plus | 25.00 (Per person) |
For extending permission, an additional 25% charge of the total amount of the initial fee will be made for each extra week. The leader or climbing member of the team must collect the permit in person from Nepal Mountaineering Association. The maximum number of person in a group is 12 pax.
Refund:-
In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some other reasons, the feels already paid will not be refunded. Every individual or party granted a climbing permit shall be accompanied by a Sirdar/Guide, who must be registered with NMA.
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