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On what should have been the third ascent of the Ama Dablan’s (6814m) north east face -1700m vertical metres, Ueli Steck wisely decided to retreat at 5900m as the conditions were dangerous due to heavy snowfalls. Similarly on the Tawoche, as he made an initial attempt on the east face’s rocky ramparts, he realised that only a kamikaze would consider it. He alternatively chose the ice on the left of the wall which was a relatively easy (for him), regular line that took four and half hours to climb overnight on the 24th April. In the morning, following 1500 metres of ice (up and down) varying between 50 and 60 degrees with a few vertical pitches judged as M5, he got back to base camp in time for breakfast …… It was the first time in seven years that someone reached this incredible mountain’s summit…..More on Request.
The 14th April, three o’clock in the morning, Ueli Steck extracts himself from his cosy sleeping bag at base camp and reaches the pile of equipment lying at the foot of the wall. As he gets into the swing of the climb he falls into a state of meditation. A state in which the climb becomes central to his existence: “I’m totally concentrated on the climb and don’t even consider what might follow.” Every day life, his partner waiting at base camp are all on another planet. As Ueli admits “as soon as I’m on the wall I become a total egoist. But that’s also why I can enjoy myself with my girlfriend following the climb, impossible if I haven’t played out my wilder side hooked on action.” It’s impossible to describe the fear one has for a loved one who’s climbing solo. It’s perfectly understandable that the girlfriend is as exhausted afterwards – at least psychologically – as the climber himself.
A magic word: psyche
The psyche. The magic word for these achievements: climbing solo at this level would be impossible without the ability to concentrate one’s whole body and mind on the climb and the next step. “I’ve always had good insight”, says Ueli. So he’s never needed to study meditation techniques …. It just comes naturally. “If you can concentrate totally on something then it remains completely focussed. I knew, based on personal experience, that I could climb Cholatse.
Nepal Mountaineering Information
Climbing rules
In exercise of the powers conferred by Government of Nepal, Nepal Mountaineering Association has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya listed in Appendix ‘1’. These rules will come into force at once.
Definition: –
Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the same as those for Government of Nepal Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.
Permission:-
Any person or mountaineering team desirous of climbing the peak listed in Appendix ‘1’ must receive permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association. Application to climb the peak must be made in the form as prescribed in Appendix ‘2’. Permission to climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only. Permission may be extended, if necessary, for another period of two weeks. The period of permission granted relates to time spent for climbing above the base camp. The trek to and from the base camp is not included. Application for climbing permit may be made at any time by the concerned mountaineering team. Permit will be granted on a first come first serve basis. The right to give permission to another party for climbing the same peak during the same period is reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association. Nepal Mountaineering Association will recommend to Immigration Office of Government of Nepal for obtaining trekking permit of the area to the team members.
Pre-departure information and trekking tips
*If you have something you are particularly prone to, ear infections or sinus problems, bring what you need with you.
If you have something you are particularly prone to, ear infections, foot rot, or sinus problems, bring what you need with you. You will definitely want to be carrying some for common illnesses like diarrhea, staff infection and upset stomachs. You will need a complete set of inoculations for Asia , ask your doctor for advise.
Food: Please bring any of your own food: power bars, granola bars, dried fruit, chocolate, always nice to have.
Travel: We will be more than happy to organize all your internal travel arrangements in the Kingdom of Nepal . We have a wide variety of services and budget options to suit your needs including, airport pick-ups, sightseeing excursions, airline reconfirmation, hotel reservations and much more. Contact our friendly and experienced staff for a personal itinerary.
Cost: The cost of the trip includes all specialized climbing equipment (see personal equipment list) meals and accommodation during the trip, permits, porters, local transport and internal flights to and from Kathmandu . It does not include personal expenses, alcohol, candy, soft drinks, meals or accommodation when staying in Kathmandu or Pokhara
Your pre-departure meeting will take place in Kathmandu two evenings prior to the beginning of the course.
Age: Age is an attitude and not a problem, but we do require that group members be at least 18 years old.
Insurance: expedition members are responsible for having their own travel insurance including helicopter evacuation.
Vaccinations: Nepal has no official vaccination requirements for entry. However we recommend that you visit a doctor for the latest recommendations and protect yourself accordingly.
Visa: Visa can be obtained at Tribhuvan International Airport upon arrival. You will need 2 passport size photograph.
Currency: The best currency to have is US Dollars in travelers’ cheques, cash and/or credit cards. American Express, MasterCard and Visa are all accepted in Nepal .
|
Group Size |
Rate US$ |
Additional P/P US$ |
| 1-4 Persons | 350.00 Only | |
| 5-8 Persons | 350.00 Plus | 40.00 (Per person) |
| 9-12 Persons | 510.00 Plus | 25.00 (Per person) |
For extending permission, an additional 25% charge of the total amount of the initial fee will be made for each extra week. The leader or climbing member of the team must collect the permit in person from Nepal Mountaineering Association. The maximum number of person in a group is 12 pax.
Refund:-
In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some other reasons, the feels already paid will not be refunded. Every individual or party granted a climbing permit shall be accompanied by a Sirdar/Guide, who must be registered with NMA.
0 Reviews on Cholatse Peak Climbing
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